波爾多期酒
波爾多有一種特殊的「期酒」制度,每年五月,前一個年分剛採收的葡萄酒還在橡木桶中培養,而波爾多的級數酒莊就會展開「預售」了。這些葡萄酒算是一種期貨,消費者訂購付款,大約還要等二十個月,才會裝瓶上市,也稱為「期酒」。消費者購買期酒的價格會比較便宜,而酒莊也可提早得到現金的挹注來維持營運,對買賣雙方都是樂見的事。
二○二一年是公認的波爾多紅酒「復古年分」,由於氣候的緣故,果味明顯、酒精度低,偏向女性優雅風格,專家一致結論:「很多年不曾在波爾多出現這麼低酒精度的紅酒了。」這句話是讚美,因為二一年分的波爾多紅酒,又回復到酒精度十二.五%至十三%左右的一九八○年代細緻風味。
一般人會認為,二一年分的波爾多紅酒酒精度低,比較不適合陳年,我認同一半(還是要看每家酒莊狀況而定);但,如果有人認為酒精度低,所以「年分不佳、酒質不優」,我個人就很不認同。
一九九四、九七這兩個年分的波爾多紅酒,就是因為當年雨水多、年分不佳,造成酒質輕柔,剛上市時確實口味平淡,所以酒價非常便宜,但放了十年酒質成熟後,卻變得可口。而同一時間,九五、九六這兩個昂貴的好年分,仍在熟睡階段,喝起來反而封閉無味。
ordeaux has a special "long-term wine" system. In May of each year, the wine just harvested in the previous year is still cultivated in oak barrels, and Bordeaux's series wineries will start "pre-sale". These wines can be regarded as futures. Consumers will have to wait about 20 months before they can bottle and market them, which is also called "future wine". The price of wine purchased by consumers will be cheaper, and the winery can also get cash injection in advance to maintain its operation, which is a happy thing for both buyers and sellers.
The year 2021 is generally recognized as the "vintage year" of Bordeaux red wine. Due to the climate, the fruit flavor is obvious, the alcohol level is low, and it is inclined to the elegant style of women. Experts unanimously concluded that "such a low alcohol red wine has not appeared in Bordeaux for many years." This sentence is a compliment, because the Bordeaux red wine of 21 years has returned to the delicate flavor of the 1980s with a wine precision of about 12.5% to 13%.
Most people will think that Bordeaux wine with a score of 21 years is of low precision and is not suitable for aging. I agree with half of them (it still depends on the condition of each winery); However, if someone thinks that the alcohol level is low, so "the age is not good and the wine quality is not good", I personally disagree.
The Bordeaux wines of 1994 and 1997 were mild in quality because of the heavy rainfall and poor annual score. When they were first launched, they really tasted bland. Therefore, the price of the wine was very cheap. However, after 10 years of maturation, the wine became delicious. At the same time, the two expensive years of 1995 and 1996 were still in the stage of deep sleep, but they were closed and tasteless to drink.